YardWork (7/16/09) - Ground Covers as Alternatives to Grass

Ground Covers for Central Florida
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EH138
Ground Covers for South Florida
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EH139
Native Ground Covers for South Florida
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EH402
Ground Covers for Florida Homes
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP016

YardWork (7/9/09) - Critters that Invade After Heavy Rains

Centipedes, Millipedes, and Earwigs
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG093
Least Toxic Methods of Cockroach Control
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG105
Mosquito Control
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/TOPIC_Mosquito_Control

Summer Lawn Care

By Pam Brown, UF/IFAS Emeritus Extension Agent

The summer months in Florida can be some of the most challenging for keeping our lawns looking good. We normally have heavy thunderstorms that produce short bursts of heavy rain that can wash nutrients from the soil. For this same reason, you should be very careful with fertilizers and pesticides that can wash out of our lawns and into storm drains. Many people believe that you should put out fertilizer or pesticides when rain is predicted so that it is watered in, when in reality our heavy rains will wash these away. The best management practice is to put down fertilizer and any granular pesticides before your scheduled irrigation day. This way the gentile sprinkling will dissolve the chemicals directly into the soil. Research shows that too much fertilizer during summer months actually can increase chinch bug infestation on St. Augustine grass. Try spraying Iron sulphate instead to green up the lawn but not create lush growth that is tasty to pests.

Areas of the lawn that are turning straw colored and dying can indicate an insect infestation. Chinch bugs infest primarily St. Augustine grass. Grubs eat the roots of several of our grass

varieties, as do the caterpillars of the sod web worm moth. For more complete information on lawn pests see the University of Florida/IFAS publications at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_turf_pest_insects

Weeds can also seem rampant during the heat of summer. Be cautious with herbicides during this time. When the temperatures are 85 degrees or higher, weed control chemicals can damage the grass along with the weeds. This goes for weed and feed fertilizers also. Keeping your grass healthy will help crowd out weeds. Mowing the grass at the proper height can also help deprive weed seeds the light they need to germinate and grow. St. Augustine and Bahia grass should be mowed at 3 1/2 to 4 inches. Dwarf St. Augustine and Bermuda can be mowed much shorter at 1 to 2 inches. Remember, also keep your mower blade sharp so that the blades are cut cleanly and not chewed off.

You can find additional information about lawn care from University of Florida/IFAS researchers at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_lawn_care

It's Hurricane Season

By Pam Brown, Emeritus Extension Agent

Hurricane season is upon us. Now is a good time to be sure that your landscape is prepared before the weather starts heating up in the tropics.

Trees are the largest plants in our landscapes and the most vulnerable to high wind. But you must also consider everything in your landscape. Create a plan for securing or storing anything that can become a missile in high winds.

After hurricanes, we see pictures of uprooted and broken trees. Some trees are stronger than others in high winds. It is primarily the way branches are attached to the trunk that determines how well trees behave in high winds. The angle of attachment that branches have with the trunk can be a problem. The strongest attachments are those that have an angle greater than 45 - 50 degrees. Narrower attachments of less than 45 degrees can contain included bark which creates a very weak at the junction of the trunk and the limb that is more likely to break. Branches that are as large in diameter as the trunk are very heavy and can split away from the trunk Dead branches break easily in winds and can cause damage to structures.

Some trees are brittle and do not do well in high wind no matter what their structure. Cherry laurel and sand pines are a couple of the worst. Trees that have been planted for less than one year should be staked to stabilize the root system if this was not done at planting. Palms do not need “hurricane cuts”; this type of pruning actually makes palms more vulnerable to wind damage

If we have large trees with some of these problems - what should we do? Trees that have structural problems can be pruned to improve their wind resistance. It is best to contact a certified arborist to evaluate and prune large trees. Do not let someone talk you into topping your trees. This can create a hazard tree that is more likely to fail. There are a lot of tree surgeons out there that are not certified arborists. You can find a certified arborist in your area by going to: http://www.treesaregood.com/findtreeservices/FindTreeCareService.aspx. Be sure to ask anyone you call for references and proof of liability insurance.

There are other things to do to prepare your landscape for hurricane force winds. Healthy landscape plants survive hurricanes better on average, so, maintain your landscape appropriately. Review everything you have outside in your yard and prepare a plan for the items in your landscape that can be dangerous in high winds. Almost anything can become a missile if the wind is high enough, including rock mulch. If you have plants in pots, determine where they will be stored during the storm. If you do not have room to secure them inside, you could place them between a structure and a high dense hedge. Very large plants in containers could be secured with tie downs or turned over on the side up against a corner wall.

Patio furniture likewise is vulnerable and must be secured. Glass top and other heavy tables can be placed top down on old towels on a secure surface. Chairs should be secured inside or tied together and secured. Yard art can be easily overlooked and could become flying missiles during hurricanes, so be sure to secure these items inside. And, don’t forget to bring the garden hoses, tools, and toys inside.

Plan now for what you will do to prepare your landscape - write the plan down so you will not forget something when a hurricane is on the way. When creating your plan, remember to be realistic about how much time you will need to accomplish all of the tasks.

For more complete information about hurricanes and your landscape, please visit the University of Florida/IFAS Pinellas County Extension website at: http://pinellas.ifas.ufl.edu/hurricanes_landscape.shtml

Termites and Mulch

Mulch provides many benefite in the landscape.  It helps prevent the loss of water from soil by evaporation and can improve the absorption of water into the soil.  Mulch can supress weeds; moderate soil temperature; and reduce erosion.  The University of Florida recommends organic mulches since they add organic matter to our infertile soil as they decompose.  You do not need to remove old organic mulch when you apply new - the old will just decay and add organic matter back to the soil.

The question of termites in mulch comes up quite often.  A University of Florida/IFAS research study conducted using Cypress, Eucalyptus, Melaleuca, Pine bark, Pine straw and utility mulch showed that termites fed on all of the mulches.  However, Melaleuca mulch was the most resistant to termite feeding.

In Florida, termites are already in our soil.  Mulch increases the ability of termites to survive where they are already extablished by keeping the soil moist and temperatures moderate.  Mulch applied at greater than 4 to 6 inches thick up to the foundation can also provide a bridge over the treated perimeter of a house, allowing termites to walk over from landscape to house and avoid contact with soil treated with termiticides.  It is best to keep at least a 12 inch area adjacent to the foundation free of mulch or other ground covers.  Mulch is useful in keeping mud from splashing up against a house, so, it is recommended that no more than a thin layer (about one inch) of mulch be placed within 12 inches of the foundation to allow the soil beneath to naturally dry if you need it. Drying out is the termite's wost enemy.  You will also want to avoid watering next to foundation walls.

Termites are everywhere in the Florida soil environment, so the best defense is to keep termite protections up to date with soil treatments and/or bait systems.

You can access additional UF/IFAS Extension information about termites at: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_termites

Nun’s Orchids

By Pam Brown, Retired Extension Agent

Nun’s orchids (Phaius tankervillae) are terrestrial orchids, meaning they will grow directly in the ground or soil. The hooded flowers are held single file on three to four foot stems. The showy flowers can measure up to five inches across and many are fragrant. The thin pleated leaves can grow up to about three feet in height. The flowers develop during late winter and early spring and they open from the bottom of the stalk to the top over a period of about six weeks and then last about a month.

These orchids prefer a very organic soil with an acidic pH and partial shade. By working peat, compost and partially decomposed pine bark in a concentration of about 60 – 70 percent into the soil, you can improve the pH. You may also need to add sand or perlite to the planting area to improve drainage. They like an even level of moisture during the time of new growth and blooming. After the new foliage matures you can begin to let the top two inches of soil dry out between watering. I find it easier to grow mine in container where I can control the soil mixture better. And, for areas that routinely get temperatures below 35 – 40 degrees F, a container that you can move inside or to a very protected is needed. They are severely damaged at temperatures below 32 degrees F.

It is easy to propagate Nun’s orchids. You can simply divide the pseudobulbs by removing the plant and cutting the pseudobulbs apart with a knife keeping roots with each section. Or you can root the expended flower stalk. Carefully cut the flower stalk from the plant. Prepare a long tray with damp sand, and then lay the flower stalk in the tray. Keep the sand and the environment moist with low light, and in two to three months you may see new shoots growing from the nodes on the flower stalk. Alternately, cut the stalk into sections just below a node where a flower was attached. Dust the cut end with rooting hormone and plant in damp sand. Again, it will take two to three months to see new sprouts.

For more information on Nun's orchids, visit the University of Florida/IFAS Extension Solutions for Your Life web site at: http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/hot_topics/lawn_and_garden/nuns_orchid.html

Butterfly Gardening with Kids

By Pam Brown, Urban Horticulture Extension Agent

Gardening with children can be a fun and educational activity. A butterfly garden is easy to do and will provide eggs to look for, along with caterpillars and butterflies to watch. It is a great way to spend quality time with your kids.

Now is a good time to plant a butterfly garden. You need to have location with lots of sun, a site that is not soggy, and that you can get water to for irrigation. The size is up to you - but involve children in the planning and selection of the location. You can talk about the needs for sun of both the plants and butterflies. If you have more than one child that will be gardening, you might want to assign them to areas of the garden.

If the children are small, they need tools that fit their size. You can find some really cute tools by shopping around. Take the children with you so that you can judge if the tools are appropriate. They will need gardening gloves to protect their hands. Some adult tools are for small areas and will be appropriate for older children.

One of the most important tasks for planting a garden of any kind is preparing the soil. If the area has not been a garden, you will want to clear it of all grass or plants and then add compost or other organic matter along with a good balanced slow release fertilizer to the area and spade it in. This is a good job for the kids - they like to dig in the soil. Teach them that growing a healthy garden starts with good soil and that plants, just like people, need water to drink and nutrients to grow. Once the material has been incorporated - rake the area smooth.

When choosing plants for your garden, you may want to consult the University of Florida/IFAS Extension publication Butterfly Gardening in Florida. Plants with flowers that are nectar or food plants will attract many kinds of butterflies. However, each species of butterfly has specific plants that they lay the eggs on so that the caterpillars have the proper food once they hatch. You will want to plant some of both in your garden. Select plants for instant effect and also purchase some seeds for the children to sow. Watching seeds sprout from the ground is a fun thing for kids. The publication listed above has lists of specific larval plants for each type of butterfly. Milkweed is both a larval plant for the Monarch and nectar source for many butterflies. Parsley, dill, fennel and carrots are larval plants for American Swallowtails. Many of our native plants are both larval and nectar sources for many butterflies. Bidens is a native that grows in many open areas and the medians of the roads that serves as a wonderful nectar source. You will want to talk with your children about the fact that the eggs that the butterfly lays will hatch into caterpillars that will eat the leaves of the plants. Some children get upset that the plants are disappearing. The caterpillar will then form a chrysalis (cocoon) that the butterfly will emerge from. Getting to observe this process is truly magical for children and adults.

Butterfly caterpillars are blind. They do not build their chrysalis on the plant they feed on - they climb down and crawl along the ground until they bump into something. They will then climb up to form the chrysalis. Planting a barrier around the edge of the garden will help keep them in the garden and give them a place to go. Liriope, daylilies or other bushy low growing plants will do. You could also put a few rough wooden planks in the garden or a bench. This will also provide some place to build a chrysalis.

Once you have your garden planted, the plants will need to be watered daily for the first few days then every few days for several weeks. Where seeds are planted the soil should be kept moist until the seedlings have two sets of leaves, then taper off. This is a good job for children. A watering can will keep the seeds from being washed out of the ground or use a hose end sprayer set on a gentle setting. You will need to add some additional fertilizer every two or three months, depending on the type you use. Follow the information on the label.

You should see butterflies visiting in a few days, and then plan to visit the garden every few days to watch for caterpillars, chrysalis and butterflies emerging.

Please watch our short video below for butterfly gardening information.

*Both pictures in this blog are by Dan Culbert, Horticulture Extension Agent in Okeechobee County, Florida